Exploring Mark Davis’ Workshop
by Brooke Betteridge on May 1st, 2012
Visiting Mark Davis’ workshop is an experience that can only be described as heavenly. Housed in an old rope factory building on the water in Brooklyn, stark white walls give way to the most glorious sight imaginable- a wall of color-coded bakelite!
Due to the vintage nature of the material, Mark has taken to buying it up whenever a “new” stockpile becomes available. Whether it be a full uncut, bakelite tube, or a collection of well-worn bangles, he has managed to amass quite a lovely hoard over the years. All in various stages of production, one can witness the transformation from ordinary to extraordinarily fabulous as the time-consuming process of sanding and polishing progresses.
Years of exposure to the elements oxidizes outer layers of the bakelite and causes it to change color. A brown piece might actually turn out to be blue after Mark has had his way with it. Who knew bakelite was so multifaceted? Mark did!
Before Mark Davis came onto the scene, bakelite had been largely forgotten. Now, many try to imitate his unique style using resin and other colorful materials. Only bakelite however is heat-resistant, impervious to moisture and shatterproof- it’s actually so durable that it was used for some bomb-casings during World War II.
After seeing the amount of work that goes into the making of each and every piece bearing his stamp, one cannot help but fall madly in love with Mark’s jewels. While this material might no longer be in vogue militarily-speaking, Mark Davis’ bakelite beauties always hold the top three spots on my jewelry wishlists.
An Elegant Tribute to a Visionary Watchmaker
by Win Betteridge on May 1st, 2012
Last year, A. Lange & Sohne announced the production of an extremely limited series of watches, commemorating the 165th anniversary of Ferdinand Adolph Lange’s founding of his Glashutte manufacture. We just received one of the first to hit US shores: the “Homage to F. A. Lange” Lange 1 Tourbillon.
The tourbillon incorporates remarkable features that you will not find in any other watch. The case is in 18k honey-colored gold- a proprietary alloy that Lange created for this watch series. The honey gold has an unparalleled warmth to it, almost resembling the elegant patina taken on by Lange movements (in German silver) in the years following their production. Moreover, the solid silver dial is stunning with its exposed tourbillon mechanism and hand-guillochéd hour & minute sub-dial.
Finally, the Homage version of the Lange 1 Tourbillon incorporates a movement so innovative it would have made F. A. Lange proud. This is the first tourbillon movement that can actually be stopped, even when the watch is fully wound. This enables for time to be set to the second and to allow better viewing of the exquisitely finished tourbillon escapement.
Limited to 150 pieces worldwide, this watch is a collector’s dream come true.
Lions at the Gate
by Terry Betteridge on April 10th, 2012
Once or twice a week, I paw through auction catalogs; jewelry first and then all sorts of small regional auctions with paintings, rugs and just old stuff. If I win more than one in fifty bids, then I know I’ve overpaid between the commissions and shipping. Sometimes though, things just happen…
Last month, as the driver brings me back to the store, the last leg of our whirlwind trip to Baselworld, I see a mountain of packing material piled on the sidewalk out front and about four feet of a pair of six foot bronze lions. Vague recollections of an inch by inch picture in a Southern auction catalog came to me…
Today, the lions guard the door, a reminder to read the fine print of auction reports.
Introducing the Betteridge Diamond Collection
by Win Betteridge on April 10th, 2012
Last week, we launched a new section on our website devoted to the Betteridge Diamond Collection.
We have photographed each and every diamond, pairing it accurately with its GIA certificate on the site. Better yet, the diamonds are available for viewing in our stores.
Many of these diamonds offer truly exceptional value. Over the years, we have done our best to buy diamonds opportunistically, helping to ensure favorable pricing for our customers.
There is no better way to showcase a spectacular diamond than in an elegant, handcrafted setting. You can see a few of our favorite designs in our engagement ring guide.
We hope that you enjoy the newest addition to Betteridge.com, and please let us know if you have any suggestions to improve it.
Highlights from Baselworld 2012
by Mike Manjos on April 10th, 2012
Rolex Sky-Dweller
Baselworld 2012 was the most exciting and upbeat watch fair in the last five years. Incredible demand from Asia, alongside a strengthening US market, has stoked demand for luxury watches to record levels. Most manufacturers have now recovered from the global crisis and are again expanding in-house offerings, as well as developing increasingly complicated models.
Rolex and Patek Philippe dominated this year’s show. While traditionally conservative, Rolex raised the bar, showcasing the new Sky-Dweller, which features an impressive dual time zone annual calendar. Although it’s a brand new complication for the manufacture, it retains the DNA we expect from a Rolex. This is one of the most innovative and easy-to-use annual calendar movements you will ever see.
Rolex also introduced the long awaited Datejust II with a smooth bezel and a version of the new Submariner without the date display.
On the other hand, Patek Philippe made 2012 the year of the bracelet. Patek added a bracelet to the ever-popular 5396 in both white gold with a blue dial and rose gold with a brown dial. The 5130 World Timer also received a bracelet in rose gold, while the white gold version added a spectacular black center disk- the finishing touches on two truly spectacular watches! Lastly, the 5726 Nautilus Annual Calendar now features a bracelet on both the black version and a new white dial model.
The highlight of Patek’s 2012 collection is the 5204 split-second chronograph perpetual calendar. The 5204 is the much anticipated replacement of the iconic ref. 5004, which many enthusiasts think of as the ultimate collector’s watch. For now simply in platinum, the 5204 features a traditional case design that has been beefed up to 40mm; a clean, easy to read dial; and, spectacular new in-house caliber. This is an exceptional evolution of a venerated classic and will be the new collector’s dream for years to come!
Spring Style Essentials
by Brooke Betteridge on April 10th, 2012
A colorful cocktail ring is a warm weather wardrobe staple, and in my opinion, no one does color better than Paolo Costagli. More so than most talented artists, Paolo has a knack for combining colors that is simply breathtaking.
He is probably best known for his peridot and pink sapphire pieces, inspired by a Florentine garden near the famous Piazzale Michelangelo. No less fabulous however, are the multitudes of other fabulous pairings like the mint tourmaline & violet sapphire, as well as deep pink tourmaline & pink sapphire, stunners above. No matter your personal taste or preferred color palette, Paolo undoubtedly has a ring so perfect, you’d think it was made just for you!
A Special Jewel & True Original
by Simon Teakle on October 29th, 2011
Multicolored Sapphire & Diamond Necklace in Titanium with Matching Earrings
There is a rare breed of contemporary jewelry that, the minute it is made, one knows it will endure the vagaries of fashion and never become the victim of boredom.
This multicolored sapphire necklace is one such enduring example. Mounted in titanium, it combines quality material with superb design and craftsmanship. Built in Geneva, in one of the world’s finest workshops, it was so difficult to make the designer vowed he would never construct jewelry using these techniques again.
Titanium is one of the most difficult metals for a jeweler to craft; it is temperamental and stiff, so if mistakes are made the work must be scrapped and begun again. Gold and platinum are much more forgiving.
The audacious way that the designer has mirrored the brilliant colors of the sapphires in the titanium itself (through a painstaking scientific process that is difficult to describe and harder yet to understand) is what makes this a masterpiece.
Instead of creating a piece that could be considered gaudy or gauche, he has transformed what could have been a predictable multicolored sapphire necklace into something both elegant and utterly unique.
A Lesson in Time & Taste
by Terry Betteridge on October 28th, 2011
Todd Mansion, Greenwich in the Early 20th Century
The 1930′s were a glorious period for the great Greenwich estates. Stone cutters, plaster workers and wood carvers put extraordinary finishing touches on grand houses; classically trained landscape architects designed wondrous gardens, then left in the hands of hereditary stewards; families hosted splendid dinner parties in wide backyard fields.
It was a time of grandeur, and within these walls, jewels of simple, but powerful beauty were worn with ease and abandon.
Below is a star sapphire of over 50 carats, beautifully set during that period. The rays of the star, glowing on fields of microscopic minerals riding the crystalline structure, extend vividly to it’s horizon.
An Elegant 30ct Star Sapphire Ring
Mimicking the geometry of this asterism, the gemstone is enhanced by triangular and kite-shaped diamond shoulders. These side stones were carved with no regard to the amount of diamond dropped away on the cutter’s floor to achieve the perfect symmetry demanded to follow the points of the central star.
My grandfather always maintained that to truly judge a jewelry craftsman’s care and ability, you have to look beneath, in this case inside, the piece; he’d have been thrilled by this ring.
Between bridging of platinum polished to mirror-like brightness (only achieved by “thrumming” leather or cotton strings through the ring’s openings for days), is the original owner’s cypher.
The Original Owner's Cypher
To cut sapphire at all- the second hardest of substances- it takes a diamond; and to fashion this perfectly entwined monogram, it took a master cutter, working a graver formed from a diamond and then skillfully wielded in the most delicate and hardest task imaginable: carving an elegant cypher.
Pop used to say that the thirties were a time when you had to have taste to have money. Although some might suggest that this no longer remains the case, this jewel from one of Greenwich’s truly “Great Estates” could make you a believer that it once was the rule.
P.S., so would seeing Old Mrs. Wilshire, who early on in my career had her chauffeur stand outside the store’s door, holding a brace of massive, dignified wolfhounds…
Paul Morelli’s Majestic Meditation Bells- Now in Sterling Silver
by Brooke Betteridge on October 1st, 2011
Paul Morelli Gem-Set Meditation Bells in Sterling Silver, from $250
Ever since their introduction in 2009, Paul Morelli’s Meditation Bells have been a hit. Something about that sweet tinkling sound is simply irresistible, and the ingeniously-simple clasp mechanism allows for endless mixing and matching!
Each bell seems to have a character all its own, whether it be the gracefully classic, plain fluted bell or the whimsical and cheerful multicolored, gem-set versions, there is a bell for everyone. For instance, my current favorite is the “Raja” bell in gorgeously moody black rhodium sparkling with amethysts and black diamonds. A little bit edgy, but still playful and feminine.
Just launched in sterling silver, there is a bell for every budget! The new silver bells come in classic styles, including ones with Morelli’s signature granulation, as well as new, gem-set stunners, such as the ones pictured to the left.
Who couldn’t use a little more Zen in her life?
The Evolution of Diamond Cutting & the “Antique Cushion”
by Simon Teakle on October 1st, 2011
Betteridge Collection Graff 10.04ct 'Antique Cushion' Diamond Engagement Ring
Diamond cutting is a combination of art and science that has evolved over many centuries. A cutter’s understanding of diamond’s precise physical properties combined with a finesse to bring out exceptional beauty is extremely rare. Although the understanding of how to maximize the weight from a crystal and achieve maximum brilliance is now almost faultless, to realize a gem’s potential for beauty remains a true art form.
The first brilliants, known as Mazarin’s, were introduced in the middle of the 17th century. These crudely fashioned stones were a more sophisticated creation than the Indian rose-cuts, and these in turn gave way to the cushion-cut, which was the most popular style of cutting by the middle of the 18th century. Many historic gems were refashioned at this time including the Agra and Hope diamonds.
Although modern brilliants and princess-cut diamonds have established themselves as a benchmark of technical perfection, the “Antique Cushion” has endured aesthetically as one of the most beautiful ways to cut a stone. This 10.04 carat diamond is a lovely example, the GIA grade is G-color and VS2-clarity, which makes it an extraordinarily beautiful gem, but not so perfect as to demand an exorbitant price for the size.
Mounted simply by Graff to enhance the stones elegant shape, this ring presents a wonderful opportunity to own an important stone that represents value in every way.