Posts by Mike Manjos
by Mike Manjos on August 16th, 2012
by Mike Manjos on April 10th, 2012
Baselworld 2012 was the most exciting and upbeat watch fair in the last five years. Incredible demand from Asia, alongside a strengthening US market, has stoked demand for luxury watches to record levels. Most manufacturers have now recovered from the global crisis and are again expanding in-house offerings, as well as developing increasingly complicated models.
Rolex and Patek Philippe dominated this year’s show. While traditionally conservative, Rolex raised the bar, showcasing the new Sky-Dweller, which features an impressive dual time zone annual calendar. Although it’s a brand new complication for the manufacture, it retains the DNA we expect from a Rolex. This is one of the most innovative and easy-to-use annual calendar movements you will ever see.
On the other hand, Patek Philippe made 2012 the year of the bracelet. Patek added a bracelet to the ever-popular 5396 in both white gold with a blue dial and rose gold with a brown dial. The 5130 World Timer also received a bracelet in rose gold, while the white gold version added a spectacular black center disk- the finishing touches on two truly spectacular watches! Lastly, the 5726 Nautilus Annual Calendar now features a bracelet on both the black version and a new white dial model.
The highlight of Patek’s 2012 collection is the 5204 split-second chronograph perpetual calendar. The 5204 is the much anticipated replacement of the iconic ref. 5004, which many enthusiasts think of as the ultimate collector’s watch. For now simply in platinum, the 5204 features a traditional case design that has been beefed up to 40mm; a clean, easy to read dial; and, spectacular new in-house caliber. This is an exceptional evolution of a venerated classic and will be the new collector’s dream for years to come!
by Mike Manjos on July 31st, 2010
This summer, our favorite new introduction is the Tag Heuer Formula 1 ceramic wristwatch.
It is just a great piece and on so many different levels! Sleek and elegant with the combination of either black or white ceramic with stainless steel it is sure to please even the most jaded of fashionistas! Truly pragmatic — water resistant AND by having a screw down crown — there is no need to worry about getting it wet. And the 37mm case size gives the watch just the perfect amount of chunkiness.
$1,200 for the plain, and did we mention the diamond version for $1,700?
by Mike Manjos on June 1st, 2010As time passes, Father’s Day is the time of year that has evolved and become most poignant to me. Both as a father, and as a son, it has taken on different sentiments over the years.
Patek Philippe’s tag line is “You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation.” Although marketing campaigns seldom resonate with me, this one does, because it demonstrates a respect for the past and fascination for the future, which is at the core of what it means to own a Patek.
The truth is any Patek Philippe is the best watch to give and receive on Father’s Day. From a simple Calatrava 5119 to the complication of the 5960, all pieces embody the affections of generations of children toward their fathers – and vice versa.
by Mike Manjos on April 1st, 2010
Since its birth in 1953, the Rolex Submariner has led a double life. It was designed to be the best water resistant watch ever made, and it was destined to be a sturdy workhorse watch for sportsmen everywhere. In 1962, however, on the wrist of James Bond, the watch started a dual incarnation as a fashion icon that to this day imparts a powerful image of male urbanity and refinement.
Fast forwarding through the years and many upgrades to Basel 2010 – we find that the watch has evolved once again. Still 300 meters water resistant, the case is 40mm and is made of 904L non-corrosive steel. The important visible updates are: a ceramic (or in Rolex parlance, “Cerachrom”) rotating bezel and a dial that now uses luminescent Chromalight for the hour makers & hands for maximum legibility in any condition.
Rolex did not ignore the movement – the new Sub has a Perpetual rotor, and a Parachrom hairspring which will both improve precision and help cut down on the wear of the parts.
Once again, Rolex has shown that the newest incarnation of the Submariner is the quintessential sophisticated divers’ watch of the world.
by Mike Manjos on April 1st, 2010
I am delighted to welcome a great friend and longstanding business colleague, John Reardon, to Betteridge. John joins us in a newly created capacity as Director of Vintage & Estate Watches – a role dedicated to assisting customers as their ‘personal curator’ in the assessment and creation of outstanding watch collections.
John’s early passion for all things horological brought him to Sotheby’s New York where he became a noted expert in watches and clocks. After five years in the auction world, he joined Patek Philippe and represented the brand for almost a decade. During this time, he completed writing the first book wholly dedicated to the venerated watchmaker: Patek Philippe in America, published by Cefari Publishing in 2008. It has become an international bestseller in the watch community.
by Mike Manjos on March 1st, 2010
For many years, the Chronomat has been the iconic flagship watch for Breitling and has worn – pardon the pun – many faces and has undergone many “evolutions.” In its latest guise, the Breitling Chronomat has transformed into the Chronomat B01.
With its streamlined case and modified integral style rider tabs, the B01 is somewhat of a departure for the brand; it has a retro 70′s feel with astronaut style font on the bezel. However, all of the classic traits of Breitling aviation remain: readability with either bold Roman numerals or stick markers on the dial, contrast with dial color and glare-proofing on both sides of the scratch resistant crystal, plus an easily utilized rotating bezel and pusher functions for the chronograph.
The most noteworthy feature of the B01, however, is internal: the movement is extraordinary and manufactured entirely by Breitling.
by Mike Manjos on February 1st, 2010
The Lange 1 watch collection is responsible for A. Lange & Sohne becoming considered one of the finest watchmakers in the world. At SIHH 2010, the company presented a new addition to this iconic collection: the Daymatic, the first Lange 1 watch powered by an automatic movement.
The Daymatic also differs from other Lange 1 models in that it has a retrograde day-of-the-week indicator on the dial, as opposed to a power reserve indicator. I think that this is a really elegant addition to this extraordinary watch.
My take: Automatic movements require less attention than manual movements, which has made automatic watches, for the most part, more popular with the mainstream public. For watch collectors who have held back on purchasing the Lange 1, because of its manual movement, this is a great opportunity to get one of the finest watches ever made.
by Mike Manjos on December 1st, 2009
Patek Philippe recently announced that, after an over twenty year production run, it is retiring the Caliber 240 Q perpetual calendar movement, which powers the ref. 3940, as well as this much rarer ref. 5040.
In addition to now being an extremely limited, collector’s piece, the 5040 has one of the most elegant designs of any Patek Philippe model; the tonneau-shaped case is elegantly proportioned so that it always looks great and does not catch under shirt cuffs.
by Mike Manjos on November 1st, 2009
To celebrate thirty years of this iconic design, Patek unveiled its new Nautilus lineup, which showcases a very modern interpretation of this timeless classic.
These are two of the most sought after new models and would be the perfect gift for any serious Patek collector.