Pre-Owned Glycine Airman 2000 40990312/AS05501

WHY WE LOVE IT

Allow us to drop some horological lore on you:

For many years, Glycine was a name well under the radar, a sterling company on which few enthusiasts and collectors set their sites. But in recent years, the brand has returned to its roots, reproducing the classic and groundbreaking design that they were once known for almost exclusively.

The Airman was developed in the mid-1950s and is reported to be the first wristwatch to incorporate a 24-hour dial and second time zone capabilities into the same timepiece. The design, coming straight from the parameters of surveyed pilots, was unlike any watch that had been previously produced. With its relatively small steel case with gently sloping lugs, the Airman was conceived first and foremost to be a low-profile timepiece, keeping well out of the way of straps, instruments and gear. The matte 24-hour dial, complete with luminous hour markers, was highly legible in any light condition, and paired with the broad arrow luminous hands, made for a face that could be read at a glance.

But most remarkable was Glycine’s inclusion of a steel, rotating 24-hour bezel with a patented crown that, when loosened, allowed the bezel to be adjusted to a second time zone and subsequently locked, eliminating the chance that it would move while on the wrist.

This innovation, in concert with its high legibility and 24-hour dial, made the Airman an instant favorite among military pilots. Stories abound about jet and helicopter pilots in the Korean and Vietnam wars gravitating to the Airman as their wristwatch of choice over the more rudimentary military-issued Benrus and Hamilton watches.

The particular Airman we have here, a Reference 3764.19T1, features a 42mm stainless steel case with holey lugs, a sapphire crystal, a bi-directional 24hr stainless steel bezel, and a luminous matte black dial with printed Arabic indices and a matching 'broad-arrow' handset. Powered by the automatic-winding ETA Calibre 2893 movement, this piece comes paired to a stainless steel Jubilee-style bracelet with a signed fliplock clasp.

While the original Airman will always stand as a benchmark for the company’s innovative spirit and no-nonsense design language, this modern incarnation is no less striking and utilitarian.

OVERALL CONDITION

The case is in excellent condition overall showing normal signs of wear from age and use. Luminous matte black dial with printed 'Arabic' numerals is in equally excellent condition. Matching 'broad-arrow' handset shows lume fracture on hour and seconds hands. Unsigned crown. Stainless steel 24hr bezel.